Aigars Pāže on Latvian Radio: An Innovative Birch Bark Cream in the Making

This morning, on the Latvian Radio 1 program “Labrīt”, listeners learned about the cosmetic innovations being developed at our Institute. LSIWC’s leading researcher Dr.sc.ing. Aigars Pāže revealed how birch bark can be transformed into ecological creams that moisturize the skin and support its regeneration. The goal of our research team is to develop three products by April 2028: a hand cream, a face cream, and a sunscreen.

A unique approach

The LSIWC team applies the principle of Pickering emulsions: extremely fine birch bark extract particles stabilize the oil–water system. The base is obtained from oleogel (a mixture of sunflower oil and birch bark extract particles), which, when water is added and homogenized, transforms into a creamy foundation suitable for various cosmetic formulations.

“This is a very simple process by which we obtain a cream – a Pickering emulsion. We are demonstrating the main principle – a stable emulsion with a minimal number of ingredients.”
Aigars Pāže, leading researcher at LSIWC

In the interview with Latvian Radio journalist Viktors Demidovs, Aigars Pāže explained that birch bark is dominated by unique extractives, most of which consist of betulin. These substances simultaneously act as emulsifiers and gelling agents, stabilizing emulsions without synthetic additives, while also providing antioxidant and preservative properties. Their biological activities are widely described, especially their ability to support skin regeneration. Current prototypes are made from just three components, and researchers are working to further improve stability and formulation flexibility for different applications.

Credit: Viktors Demidovs

From the laboratory to the market

In the interview, Aigars Pāže emphasized that this represents the next generation of raw materials in cosmetics – replacing traditional synthetic and often harmful emulsifiers with an ecological birch bark extractive alternative. Our researchers have discovered methods to process these extractives into very fine particles in a maximally efficient, simple, and cost-effective way, making them ideally suited as emulsifiers for creating eco-bio creams. The project foresees close collaboration with cosmetic manufacturers to adapt the creams to the needs of different age groups.

“We are studying how to replace synthetic emulsifiers commonly used in cosmetics with an ecological birch bark extractive alternative – effective, simple, and economical.”
Aigars Pāže, leading researcher at LSIWC

The industry perspective was also highlighted by Lotte Tisenkopfa-Iltnere, founder and CEO of Madara Cosmetics, who stressed that innovations must address the needs of the user, while nature-based solutions are particularly important both in terms of consumer perception and regulatory requirement

Next steps

In the next stages of the project, our researchers will focus on optimizing the formulation, improving stability, texture, and sensory properties, as well as conducting safety and efficacy tests in line with cosmetic regulatory standards. Industry validation and technology transfer to the manufacturer are also planned to ensure that laboratory results gradually develop into market-ready products. If everything proceeds as planned, the first creams could appear on store shelves in early 2028, coinciding with the conclusion of the project.

Full footage and text: Latvian scientists develop birch bark cosmetics

Project Partners:

• Latvian State Institute of Wood Chemistry (leading partner)
• JSC “Latvijas Finieris”
• Ltd. “LABRAINS”

Project description: Development of innovative body skincare products and unique cosmetic raw material, stabilized with multifunctional particles of birch outer bark extractives