Latvian Scientists to Develop World-Unique Skincare Products from Birch Bark
Since May 1, 2025, the Latvian State Institute of Wood Chemistry, in collaboration with the companies SIA Labrains and AS Latvijas Finieris, has launched an interdisciplinary project supported by the European Regional Development Fund (ERDF). The aim is to develop innovative skincare products and unique cosmetic ingredients using micro-sized particles of birch outer bark extractives.
From Plywood By-Product to Beauty Shelf: Birch Outer Bark Extractives as an Innovative Cosmetic Ingredient
Birch bark, a by-product of plywood production, contains valuable pentacyclic triterpenes -such as betulin, lupeol, and betulinic acid - known for their strong biological effects, including antibacterial, antiviral, anticancer, and other bioactive properties. These compounds are already used in pharmaceuticals for the treatment of skin conditions. The project seeks to further develop birch outer bark extracts into next-generation cosmetic ingredients by creating innovative emulsions in which synthetic emulsifiers are replaced by multifunctional particles of birch outer bark extractives. These particles not only stabilize the emulsions but also enhance their preservative and antioxidant properties while providing healing biological activity for the skin.
Three New Products: From Concept to Industrial Production
During the project, three product prototypes will be developed: a sunscreen (SPF ~30) and moisturizing creams for the face and body. These will be the first cosmetics of their kind to use birch outer bark extractives particles specifically adapted for the cosmetics industry - designed for ease of use in production - replacing potentially harmful synthetic emulsifiers with a natural, sustainable, and skin-friendly alternative. The result will be so-called Pickering emulsions, where birch outer bark extractives particles operate according to a completely different and highly suitable mechanism compared to conventional emulsifiers.
The project covers not only the development of new cosmetic ingredients and formulations in the laboratory, but also scaling up to industrial production in collaboration with two strong partners: AS Latvijas Finieris, one of Europe’s largest birch plywood producers and owner of the first betulin production facility in the Baltics - Betulin Lab – as well as SIA Labrains, an innovative, eco-conscious skincare manufacturer known for high-quality products.
Project Leader – A Scientist with Vision and Experience
The scientific leader of the project is Dr.sc.ing. Aigars Pāže, one of Latvia’s leading experts in birch bark processing and extraction of betulin-rich compounds. Under his guidance, several original technologies have been developed at the LSIWC Biorefinery Laboratory, including industrial-scale production of high-purity betulin from birch by-products. These technologies are now practically applied in the newly established Betulin Lab. Dr. Pāže combines deep scientific knowledge and hands-on experience to deliver practical solutions, helping to raise the international visibility of Latvian science in both the cosmetics and potentially the pharmaceutical industries.
Sustainability, Innovation, and Economic Impact
This project will significantly contribute to Latvia’s bioeconomy and to global efforts to shift toward more environmentally friendly and resource-efficient production. The resulting new knowledge and technologies will benefit not only the cosmetics sector but also other industries related to birch processing.
First On-Site Meeting at LSIWC
In early June, project partners gathered for the first in-person meeting and toured the laboratories at LSIWC. Scientists demonstrated how birch outer bark extractives particles dispersed in vegetable oil form a gel - an innovative cosmetic ingredient - which was then used to prepare Pickering emulsions serving as a base for creams. During the meeting, researchers presented initial experimental results and prototype formulations, discussing their physicochemical properties and other current affairs of the project.
Project Description:
Project Title: Development of innovative body skincare products and unique cosmetic raw material, stabilized with multifunctional particles of birch outer bark extractives
- Project Duration: 01.05.2025 – 30.04.2028
- Total Budget: EUR 882,354 (excluding VAT)
- ERDF Support: EUR 600,000
- Scientific Leader: Dr.sc.ing. Aigars Pāže
- Partners: AS Latvijas Finieris, SIA Labrains
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